If workers are to defend their right to a living wage and freedom of association, they should be part of a union. However, many managers within the garment industry are opposed to unionised workforces as they complicate plans of fast production at a low cost.
Many workers feel so intimidated that they are too frightened to consider joining a union for fear of losing their job. Workers interviewed in preparation for Play Fair at the Olympics felt convinced that joining a union would lead to being fired.
Rana, a 22-year-old garment worker in a Turkish factory, told researchers: "Last year while the workers of the factory next door were striking in front of their factory,our supervisor said to us 'You'll see – all of them will lose their jobs. Never make this mistake yourselves. Otherwise you will face the same consequences.'"
Many workers are intimidated and threatened which also prevents them from considering either forming or joining a union. The following is an example of the atmosphere in a factory supplying WalMart in Bangladesh:
"Workers...are not allowed to form any union or organisation. The management has warned them that if any one tries to organise workers and form a union he or she would be handed over to the police."
In many of the factories researched by campaigners in the past few years, workers report that management make it clear that union organising is not acceptable. One Indonesian worker described what happened after a strike at her factory:
"At first the strike organisers were suspended. They were not allowed to come to work and received only 75% of their basic wage. Then they were all fired. We felt very scared and powerless when this happened. It was as if management was saying to us: 'See,this is the consequence of your strike."
Many garment workers are paid way below a living wage for the work that they do. However without a trade union is it almost impossible for a worker's voice to be heard and even less likely that any pay increases will be considered.
"In the absence of a trade union it is very difficult to talk about a wage hike. Many times we mustered courage and tried to put our demands forward but we always reverted back due to the fear of reaction from the management." - garment worker in north India.
The role of trade unions are imperative to ensure that workers get a living wage and decent working conditions.
"Before there was a problem with our overtime pay - we weren't given enough. But now [we are unionised] it's what it should be. We can send money home to our parents now. This helps families." - garment worker in Indonesia
